| Learning
the A-Frame |
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Start
small
Always start out on a lowered a-frame, especially with young dogs.
The standard AKC height is 5'6", I recommend starting at about 3
feet tall. After your Dane is comfortable at that height, you can slowly
raise it up to 4' , then 5'6", and if you will be competing in USDAA
then eventually you'll go up to 6'.
Contacts
Reward at the bottom in what is called the "2 on 2 off"
position, like Ali is doing in the photo. Do not allow your Dane to get
in the habit of jumping off half-way down. From the very first time, you
want to stop your Dane at the bottom with his back feet on the contact,
and give your hugs, treats, and praise. Then release with a "okay"
and praise some more! The goal is to have your Dane charge up the a-frame
and down the other side without pausing or slowing down until they are
at the bottom, where they wait for your release.
Commands/Signals
I say "ramp" but other commands are "climb" and
"frame." I like to signal the frame with my arm up high, pointing
to the top. That way if there is an a-frame/tunnel trap, the up arm means
a-frame and the down arm means tunnel. Then at the down contact I say
"bottom" with my arm pointing to the ground which means 2 on
2 off. When she's held the position for a second, I swing my arm to the
direction we are headed next and say "okay!"
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"2 on 2 off" Position

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This
is Ali's first day on the A-Frame.
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| Learning
the Tunnel |
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Let another
dog teach the tunnel!
Ali, at about 31" tall, had absolutely no problem going through
the tunnel for her first time. That is because she saw Morgan doing it,
and Morgan getting all the treats and praise...it was so exciting that
Ali just had to do it, too! I really think that dogs learn best by watching
another dog's example.
Shapes
and Colors
To start out, you should use a straight tunnel that is light in color
so that the dog does not get scared in the dark and can see the end. You
can try a short tunnel to start out, but this long one worked fine for
Ali's first time. The first day Ali only did the straight yellow tunnel,
but by the second day she was doing the "C" curved dark blue
tunnel with no problem, as you'll see in the video...still going through
right on Morgan's heels!
Commands/Signals
I say "tunnel" and I signal with my arm pointing down to
the entrance. I like to use the "bowling" or "underhand
toss" motion. It is really good to yell "go, go, go" or
"woo-hoooo!" while they are inside the tunnel for 3 reasons:
1. Affirmation: YES, you are doing the right thing!
2. Motivation: Speed it up!
3. Location: The dog can hear where you are and knows what direction he
should turn when he exits the tunnel.
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2 Danes in the tunnel!!!

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Ali
got so excited about playing in the tunnel with Morgan that she tried
to go in at the same time!
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| Walking
a Plank |
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Learn
where those feet are!
Before letting your Dane try the real Dogwalk or Teeter, teach them
to walk on a low plank about 10 or 12 inches wide. Start on the ground,
and work your way up. On Ali's first day we had her walk a couple different
types of planks, one flat like a teeter and one with slats like the dogwalk.
Raise
the height on the plank slowly
On Ali's second day, we propped the planks onto a low table. Again,
we used one plank from the teeter and one from the dogwalk...just so she'd
get used to the two types of planks. At this point I used the "walk-it"
command with a lot of encouragement.
Commands/Signals
It is a good idea to start pausing at the up and down contacts and
using a "touch" or "bottom" command after they get
over their initial fear of the narrow plank. With Morgan I started training
with a "teeter" and a "walk-it" command, but I no
longer use them...I simply point and say "touch." I have not
yet come across a situation where the teeter and dogwalk were so close
that it was a discrimination issue. I point toward the contact while I
say "touch," and I come to a complete stop. Often there will
be a tunnel trap at the start of the dogwalk, which is why it is good
to use the "underhand toss" motion for the tunnel without slowing
down, which is a big contrast to your "touch" command. But when
you are just starting on the plank, you may want to stick with the "touch"
command at each end, with encouragement like "go, go, go!" at
the middle.
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|
| Learning
the Chute |
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Demo
Dog
Once again, Ali got so excited watching Morgan do the chute that she
had to try it herself. It's a good idea to have the treat-dispensing person
at the end of the chute to hold it open. Be especially careful that your
Dane does not ever get tangled in the chute, it can be a scary experience
and you'll have a hard time gaining their confidence again.
Commands/Signals
Some people say "tunnel," but I say "chute." I
like to use that same "underhand toss" signal, and also use
the "go, go, go!" that I use for the tunnel. Eventually you'll
be able to call "here!" while they are in the chute so that
they will start bending toward you for a tighter turn even before they
are out of the chute.
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See how easy it is?

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| Playing
on the course |
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Let another
dog teach the course!
Like in training the tunnel and chute, I think it's important to teach
the dog that agility is a fun game. I tried running Morgan around the
course with low jumps, and Ali just went bonkers chasing Morgan. She even
took a few of the jumps in her path. This way Ali watches Morgan follow
my commands, which in turn Ali follows...just by chasing Morgan.
Jump
heights
Most people recommend not jumping at competition height until your
Dane is 2 years old. A lot of people recommend no jumps at all until 1
year old, and even then at only 8 or 12 inches. I think that 8 or 12 inches
is reasonble for 9-12 months old, and then up to 16 or 20 inches until
18-24 months. If you will be competing at 12-18 months, then occasionally
set the jumps at competition height for practice just before the competition.
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Follow the leader

click here to watch the video - >
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